Kitchen appliances are one of the most indispensable things of every kitchen. Today, almost all the kitchens are flooded with maximum kitchen appliances as it completes the work efficiently, thus saving time and energy. Kitchen appliances have earned eminence and have become a celebrity of every kitchen due to its competence in performing various functions effectively, and for occupying less space. People have become obsessed to kitchen appliances and its magnificent services.knife block henckels set.
Acquiring kitchen appliances has become a fantasy of every home maker. They have great pride in displaying their kitchen appliances. Today, the appliance market is flooded with big and small kitchen appliances to cater the needs of every home. Shopping for kitchen appliances is done keeping the budget in mind, its capacity to perform the required functions, time consumed, noise it produces, features, controls, and its user friendliness. Topping all these qualities is the warranty that comes with the kitchen appliances. Kitchen appliances warranty play a vital role in acquiring these appliances as any appliance that crops up with some defects can be replaced or repaired if it is within the warranty period.
Warranty works like a security offered free of cost as it involves taking care of the product after sales for a specific period. People purchasing kitchen appliances welcome warranty as they need not run after service oriented shops. Anyhow, purchasing any kitchen appliance involves taking care of few things like the energy competence an appliance can provide, and the money saved in operating this appliance. Gathering enough information on the required product proves to be handy during shopping, and also viewing the consumer views or taking referrals from friends and relatives are of great assistance while shopping for kitchen appliances.
Warranty offers calmness to mind as anything and everything falls under the roof of warranty. A buyer can opt for appliances that come with more warranty and enjoy the utility with relaxation. Companies offering warranty are available through helpline and are prepared to attend during any hour of the day. They assure their services with perfection. Extended warranty offers replacement of the entire appliance and this proves to be very beneficial to the buyer.
Warranty allows a person to operate an appliance with openness, instead of shrinking with fear of spoiling the appliance. Kitchen appliances demand investment of huge amount, and similarly, warranty that comes with the kitchen appliances ensure safety for the money invested.
Sunday, September 2, 2007
Dos And Don'ts Of Home Plumbing
DO - Run very hot water into your kitchen sink drain either by boiling water on stove or from your faucet, then fill one side of your sink and plunge.
DO - When plunging your sink, plug up one side with a cloth and hold.
DO - When using your garbage disposal, run hot and cold water at full pressure.
DO - Fill up sink after using your disposal and drain.
DO - If you have a dishwasher, use after using your garbage disposal.
DO - Remove the aerator on your kitchen faucet when pressure is slow and clean, unscrew by hand or use channel pliers.
DO - Remove the screws from your kitchen wash bowl and bath tub faucet, and put a few drops of household oil in each screw hole or under handle if removable.
DO - At least twice a year clean out the inside of your toilet tank. When cleaning tank, turn off the water, flush toilet once, add small amount of cleaning detergent inside tank to water remaining, use a cloth or brush to clean.
DO - Clean out holes under toilet seat and rim of the bowl - can use small end of a pocket knife.
DO - Clean out 3/4" hole in the bottom of toilet bowl.
DO - Replace rubber tank ball at this time if needed.
DO - Adjust water level in toilet tank, 1" below top of 3/4" overflow pipe. To adjust type with 1/4" rod and metal or plastic float ball, put both hands on rod and bend end of rod towards float ball down, this lowers water level. To raise water level, bend rod up .
DO - When plunging your bathroom sink or bath tub use a cloth and plug up the overflow and hold tight. It's a good idea to plunge your drains before they stop up.
DO - Remove the stoppers and clean down pipe where stopper connects.
DO - When finished plunging, fill wash bowl until it runs int overflow. If you have a small type spring brush, use to clean overflow.
DO - Spray disinfectant cleaner into overflow.
DO - If bath tub is slow draining and has the lever at overflow for stopper, remove bolts, and pull wire, lift lever out and clean hair from wire.
DO - Oil parts in toilet tank that are above the water level, handle and ballcock valve.
DO - If you have trouble with tree roots in your sanitary sewer, purchase some copper sulphate in blue chunk form, put a sizeable amount on your basement floor drain strainer, let cold water run over it until it dissolves.
DON'T - Put coffee grounds in your sink drains.
DON'T - Use drain cleaners containing lye.
DON'T - Poke any wire or rod from your sink into drain.
DON'T - Have a shelf above your china sinks with heavy objects that could fall into sink. Will crack china sink or chip cast iron type.
DON'T - Use your toilet tank lid for a shelf.
DON'T - Have a knick-knack shelf above your toilet.
DON'T - Pour a bucket of dirty water into your toilet; may contain scrub rag.
DON'T - Pour hot water into toilet; temperature change will crack the bowl.
DON'T - Put any type cleaning device into your toilet tank.
DO - Just clean by hand.
DON'T - Hang wire type odor tablet in toilet bowl.
DON'T - Put a brick in your toilet tank to save water
DO - Adjust water level.
DON'T - Use the toilet bowl for a scrub tub.
DON'T - Leave diapers soaking in bowl.
DON'T - Throw disposable diapers in toilet, burn them.
DON'T - Keep your waste basket in kitchen and bathroom under the sink. Keeps bumping pipes and causing leaks.
DON'T - Throw sanitary napkins into toilet; burn them.
DON'T - When painting around the house, paint any of your copper water lines.
DON'T - Forget at least twice a year to put a garden hose on the boiler drain at the bottom of your hot water tank and run until the water clears up. Spray this valve with a little oil also. I use WD-40.
DON'T - Forget to check your flu pipe from your hot water tank to the chimney for leakage of fumes.
DON'T - Leave your water valves rust shut. Put some oil on the stem and open and close them a few times. If it leaks at the stem use a crescent wrench and tighten bonnet nut at the handle. Spray a little oil on the whole valve. Keeps from rusting.
Here are some of the things I have removed years of home plumbing calls:
Small bottles yo-yo ' s tooth brushes toys of all kinds wire odor tablets cigarette lighters golf balls lids and caps car keys hair curlers false teeth cream jars wallets combs knick-knacks pens and pencils
DO - Keep these items away from the toilet.
DON'T - Let the children play in the bathroom with toys small enough to go down your toilet trap.
DO - Get in the habit of putting the back of the toilet seat down before flushing.
But if you haven't put into affect my DO's and DON'Ts, and you flush the toilet and the water in the bowl starts coming up and not down, quickly remove the tank lid, reach into the middle bottom of tank and push the rubber ball or flapper back down over the outlet. Then shut off the water supply.
Now if you are sure you haven't let something like the above listed objects fall into the toilet, you can usually use a plunger to open the toilet. But if you are missing something from the toilet area that could be in the bowl, you will have to use a toilet auger to try and retrieve the object. If you can't remove it with the auger, the toilet will have to be lifted.
DO - If you have a water leak from below your bathroom directly below Your bath tub shower, and it only leaks when YOU take a shower, here's what to look for:
DO - Check the entire tile wall on the inside area of the bath tub for cracks, etc. To repair, use a tube of tub & tile caulking seal.
DO - Check the wall, especially around the handles and the spout of the faucet, seal all openings with caulking.
DO - Check the inside edge of the shower door track.
DO - If the water leak is below the toilet, first check the water pipe where tank and bowl are connected together. If there is no sign of water on the floor around the pipe, chances are your toilet needs to be lifted and a new wax ring installed (refer to toilet installation).
DO - If you go on vacation or are away from home for a few days, always shut off your water supply to your home.
DO - Keep heat on where water pipes and drain pipes are located in your home, when temperature is 32 degrees or colder.
DO - If you can't put heat in an area where water pipes are, use an electric heat tape.
DO - If your kitchen sink is located on an outside wall, leave cupboard doors open in severe cold weather.
DO - Shut off all outside faucets in cold weather if they are not of the frost proof type.
DO - If you are closing up a home in the wintertime and there will be no heat in the home, shut off the water supply at the street or in the basement.
DO - Open all faucets in the home and leave them open.
DO - Open drain at bottom of hot water tank and drain.
DO - Remove all water from toilet tank and bowl.
DO - Put permanent Anti-freeze in toilet bowl and a small amount in the bottom of the toilet tank.
DO - Put anti-freeze in all sink drains and bath and shower drains, enough to fill the traps.
DO - If you wish, remove traps on sinks, but be sure and plug up open line, to keep out sewer gas fumes.
HOW TO INSTALL A NEW TOILET
If your toilet is old and in need of repairs, it is really cheaper to install a new one. This is the easiest of all the plumbing jobs in the home to do and if you follow my simple instructions you can put yours in yourself.
1. Shut off the water to the toilet, use a bucket and a cloth or a sponge to remove the water left in tank and bowl after you flush the toilet.
2. Using a pair of channel pliers, or a small pipe wrench (8"), remove the nut where the water line fastens to the ballcock valve under the left side of the bottom of the tank. Next use a small crescent wrench, remove the two 1/4" nuts holding the bowl to the floor flange. Remove old toilet. Remove the water line from the valve or fitting at floor or wall.
3. Now you are ready to install your new toilet. Put the two 1/4" bolts in the side holes of the flange with the bolt head in the flange. Put some of the old wax at this spot to hold the bolts straight up and across from each other. Put new wax ring on flange, flat side up if tapered.
4. Set new bowl only straight down so it centers on wax ring and both bolts come through holds on each side of bowl. Sit on bowl facing wall until your weight puts bowl flush with the floor. Put metal washers and nuts on bolts and tighten until snug. Do not over-tighten as you can crack the bowl. Tighten these again after toilet is completely installed and filled with water.
5. Next put 2" rubber gasket on tank where it sets on the bowl, put rubber washers on bolts provided under the bolt head so they will be on the inside of the tank. Pick up tank and set on bowl over holes in bowl where bolts go through. Sit on bowl facing wall. Put bolts on from the inside of the tank into holes in bowl, put on metal washers and nuts and tighten. Hold tank level and tighten so it brings tank down level. Use a large screw driver inside tank and a crescent wrench or end wrench to back up nut under bowl. Tighten with screw driver. Hook water supply to tank, turn on water, check for leaks, snug up the bolts holding bowl to floor. If there is a space between the back of the tank and the wall, put a spacer of sort there to brace tank. A piece of wood or hard rubber works fine.
PARTS NEEDED:
Toilet bowl Toilet tank Toilet seat Two 1/4" bolts for bowl to flange Wax ring 20" water supply with fitting at valve or floor connection
Now DO put my DOs and DON'Ts into use, and you new toilet will never need a plumber!
WATER CONSERVATION BEGINS AT HOME
I believe if we tried we could cut our water use in half. There are many more ways other than the ones I have in my report. Have an idea of your own ? write it down. Sometimes some things we don't think are worthwhile are great ideas.
Like the young man who went into one of the larger toothpaste companies and told the president of the company if he paid him a sizeable amount of money, he would give him his idea on how he could double his toothpaste business. The company president agreed, and the young man said, okay here's what you do, make the hole in all of your toothpaste tubes twice the size it is now, this will double the use of your toothpaste, and double your sales.
HERE ARE SOME OF MY IDEAS
The first thing to do is to check your entire plumbing system for leaks - leaking faucets, water pipes, etc. If you don't think a leaking faucet will waste water, put the stopper in a sink where one is leaking overnight.
The toilet is the worst water waster of all. Flush the toilet and wait until it supposedly shuts off, then listen at the tank for a hissing or trickling sound, if you hear a noise here's what to do, check the rubber tank ball or flapper in the middle of the toilet tank at the bottom. If the ball is old and has lost its shape, replace it. Also using a fine steel wool pad, clean off the seat under the ball till it is smooth. If the noise is from the ballcock valve on the left side of the tank and is the type with the quarter inch rod with a metal or plastic float ball, lift up on the rod, if the noise stops, then starts again after you let go, chances are your ballcock valve is bad and needs replaced. If when you are holding the quarter inch rod up and the water leaks out of the tank, and you have already replaced the rubber ball or the flapper, check the lift wire or the chain from the ball to the handle, and make sure it is not dropping the ball wrong, or is on a bind.
WHEN YOU FLUSH YOUR TOILET AT ANY TIME, ALWAYS WAIT UNTIL YOU ARE SURE IT SHUTS OFF, ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE LEAVING THE HOUSE. IF YOU ARE LEAVING YOUR HOUSE FOR A VACATION OR ONLY A COUPLE DAYS ITS A GOOD IDEA TO SHUT YOUR MAIN WATER VALVE OFF. IT MIGHT SAVE A GREAT WATER LOSS, AS WELL AS A LOT OF DAMAGE TO YOUR HOME. HERE'S WHY:
I had a plumbing call to a home where the people had gone on a vacation for two weeks. The last person to leave the home flushed the toilet and did not wait to be sure it shut off before leaving.
HERE'S WHAT HAPPENED:
The toilet stopped up when the last person flushed it. The rubber ball did not drop back straight and the water ran over the toilet bowl for two weeks.
HERES WHAT THEY FOUND WHEN THEY RETURNED HOME AFTER TWO WEEKS:
- The bathroom and the kitchen floors had warped.
- The tile and the carpet was ruined.
- The plaster ceiling in the kitchen had fallen.
- The woodwork and the doors were all warped.
- The formica counter tops in the kitchen had lifted.
- Below the kitchen in the basement, the father and son's very expensive car and train set were severely damaged.
NOW this was in the winter time, and the furnace was left on to keep the water pipes from freezing. The water went down from the first floor and leaked onto the furnace which made steam, the steam went into every room in the house and caused the wallpaper to fall off the walls in every room.
LOOK AT THE WATER WASTED HERE AS WELL AS THE $ COST
- When using your bathroom or kitchen sink, don't leave the water run when you don't need to.
- Take shorter showers.
- Turn off the shower when you are lathering up.
- When using your washing machine, and only washing a small amount of clothes, set the water level for less water.
TRY THIS:
Take the quarter inch refill tube that goes from the toilet ballcock valve into the overflow pipe in the toilet tank, and fasten it so the water from it goes into the tank and helps to fill it faster. You can only do this if when your toilet is flushed and retraps itself.
While the toilet is refilling after being flushed, it doesn't take as much water as is put into the bowl from the refill tube. Every little bit helps.
HERE IS A GOOD WATER SAVER
If the water pressure in your home is more than you need. DO THIS.
Close your main water valve until your pressure slows down some, but is still enough for your needs. Or do this to the smaller valves under your kitchen and bathroom sin. A lot of homes have a lot more pressure than they need.
UNDERGROUND WATER LEAKS
Sometimes there are water leaks underground between your home, the street, or your outside water supply.
These go undetected for years. Here's one way you can check your line for a leak. Put your ear on the water meter in your home and put your finger in your other ear. If you hear a hissing sound like pressure releasing you probably have a leak in your line, be sure no one is running water in the house when doing this. Most of the time a leak underground will eventually come to the top of the ground, but I have had some leaks that I found had worked theirt way into the sewer line under it, and had been leaking for years.
To check this, remove the clean out plug on your sewer line to the street. Put your ear at that point and listen, if you have a leak you will be able to hear it in the sewer line. Again be sure no one is running water...
HERE ARE SOME OF THE WAYS A CITY COULD SAVE WATER
In areas where the water pressure is greater than needed, the city water deptartment could install a pressure regulator valve at the water meter in these homes to control the amount water used.
Another good water saver would be to require in new home construction that a small spring valved wall hung urinal be installed in all bathrooms .
A TOILET WHEN FLUSHED USES ABOUT SIX GALLONS OF WATER.
A SMALL WALL HUNG SPRING VALVED URINAL USES LESS THAN ONE GALLON.
LOOK AT THE WATER THAT COULD BE SAVED HERE.
HERE IS A TWENTY FIVE YEAR WATER LEAK...
I worked as a maintenance plumber in one of the larger hospitals in the area. Here's what I found one day.
The kitchen of the hospital had a tile floor, and at one area the til floor was always hot, so much so the workers were always complaining of being too warm.
One day while working on the water piping, we had to turn off the water for a long time.
I later happened to kneel down on the floor where it was always hot. It had cooled down. When we turned the water back on we found a water line leaking under the floor where it was always hot. We repaired the hot water pipe, turned the water back on, and the floor stayed cool...
I then began to explain to the kitchen supervisor what we had found. She said she had worked here for twenty five years and the tile floor in that are had always been hot...
A twenty five year water leak. Can you believe the water loss here. I bet if we checked all over the good old U.S.A. we could find some water being wasted.
DO - When plunging your sink, plug up one side with a cloth and hold.
DO - When using your garbage disposal, run hot and cold water at full pressure.
DO - Fill up sink after using your disposal and drain.
DO - If you have a dishwasher, use after using your garbage disposal.
DO - Remove the aerator on your kitchen faucet when pressure is slow and clean, unscrew by hand or use channel pliers.
DO - Remove the screws from your kitchen wash bowl and bath tub faucet, and put a few drops of household oil in each screw hole or under handle if removable.
DO - At least twice a year clean out the inside of your toilet tank. When cleaning tank, turn off the water, flush toilet once, add small amount of cleaning detergent inside tank to water remaining, use a cloth or brush to clean.
DO - Clean out holes under toilet seat and rim of the bowl - can use small end of a pocket knife.
DO - Clean out 3/4" hole in the bottom of toilet bowl.
DO - Replace rubber tank ball at this time if needed.
DO - Adjust water level in toilet tank, 1" below top of 3/4" overflow pipe. To adjust type with 1/4" rod and metal or plastic float ball, put both hands on rod and bend end of rod towards float ball down, this lowers water level. To raise water level, bend rod up .
DO - When plunging your bathroom sink or bath tub use a cloth and plug up the overflow and hold tight. It's a good idea to plunge your drains before they stop up.
DO - Remove the stoppers and clean down pipe where stopper connects.
DO - When finished plunging, fill wash bowl until it runs int overflow. If you have a small type spring brush, use to clean overflow.
DO - Spray disinfectant cleaner into overflow.
DO - If bath tub is slow draining and has the lever at overflow for stopper, remove bolts, and pull wire, lift lever out and clean hair from wire.
DO - Oil parts in toilet tank that are above the water level, handle and ballcock valve.
DO - If you have trouble with tree roots in your sanitary sewer, purchase some copper sulphate in blue chunk form, put a sizeable amount on your basement floor drain strainer, let cold water run over it until it dissolves.
DON'T - Put coffee grounds in your sink drains.
DON'T - Use drain cleaners containing lye.
DON'T - Poke any wire or rod from your sink into drain.
DON'T - Have a shelf above your china sinks with heavy objects that could fall into sink. Will crack china sink or chip cast iron type.
DON'T - Use your toilet tank lid for a shelf.
DON'T - Have a knick-knack shelf above your toilet.
DON'T - Pour a bucket of dirty water into your toilet; may contain scrub rag.
DON'T - Pour hot water into toilet; temperature change will crack the bowl.
DON'T - Put any type cleaning device into your toilet tank.
DO - Just clean by hand.
DON'T - Hang wire type odor tablet in toilet bowl.
DON'T - Put a brick in your toilet tank to save water
DO - Adjust water level.
DON'T - Use the toilet bowl for a scrub tub.
DON'T - Leave diapers soaking in bowl.
DON'T - Throw disposable diapers in toilet, burn them.
DON'T - Keep your waste basket in kitchen and bathroom under the sink. Keeps bumping pipes and causing leaks.
DON'T - Throw sanitary napkins into toilet; burn them.
DON'T - When painting around the house, paint any of your copper water lines.
DON'T - Forget at least twice a year to put a garden hose on the boiler drain at the bottom of your hot water tank and run until the water clears up. Spray this valve with a little oil also. I use WD-40.
DON'T - Forget to check your flu pipe from your hot water tank to the chimney for leakage of fumes.
DON'T - Leave your water valves rust shut. Put some oil on the stem and open and close them a few times. If it leaks at the stem use a crescent wrench and tighten bonnet nut at the handle. Spray a little oil on the whole valve. Keeps from rusting.
Here are some of the things I have removed years of home plumbing calls:
Small bottles yo-yo ' s tooth brushes toys of all kinds wire odor tablets cigarette lighters golf balls lids and caps car keys hair curlers false teeth cream jars wallets combs knick-knacks pens and pencils
DO - Keep these items away from the toilet.
DON'T - Let the children play in the bathroom with toys small enough to go down your toilet trap.
DO - Get in the habit of putting the back of the toilet seat down before flushing.
But if you haven't put into affect my DO's and DON'Ts, and you flush the toilet and the water in the bowl starts coming up and not down, quickly remove the tank lid, reach into the middle bottom of tank and push the rubber ball or flapper back down over the outlet. Then shut off the water supply.
Now if you are sure you haven't let something like the above listed objects fall into the toilet, you can usually use a plunger to open the toilet. But if you are missing something from the toilet area that could be in the bowl, you will have to use a toilet auger to try and retrieve the object. If you can't remove it with the auger, the toilet will have to be lifted.
DO - If you have a water leak from below your bathroom directly below Your bath tub shower, and it only leaks when YOU take a shower, here's what to look for:
DO - Check the entire tile wall on the inside area of the bath tub for cracks, etc. To repair, use a tube of tub & tile caulking seal.
DO - Check the wall, especially around the handles and the spout of the faucet, seal all openings with caulking.
DO - Check the inside edge of the shower door track.
DO - If the water leak is below the toilet, first check the water pipe where tank and bowl are connected together. If there is no sign of water on the floor around the pipe, chances are your toilet needs to be lifted and a new wax ring installed (refer to toilet installation).
DO - If you go on vacation or are away from home for a few days, always shut off your water supply to your home.
DO - Keep heat on where water pipes and drain pipes are located in your home, when temperature is 32 degrees or colder.
DO - If you can't put heat in an area where water pipes are, use an electric heat tape.
DO - If your kitchen sink is located on an outside wall, leave cupboard doors open in severe cold weather.
DO - Shut off all outside faucets in cold weather if they are not of the frost proof type.
DO - If you are closing up a home in the wintertime and there will be no heat in the home, shut off the water supply at the street or in the basement.
DO - Open all faucets in the home and leave them open.
DO - Open drain at bottom of hot water tank and drain.
DO - Remove all water from toilet tank and bowl.
DO - Put permanent Anti-freeze in toilet bowl and a small amount in the bottom of the toilet tank.
DO - Put anti-freeze in all sink drains and bath and shower drains, enough to fill the traps.
DO - If you wish, remove traps on sinks, but be sure and plug up open line, to keep out sewer gas fumes.
HOW TO INSTALL A NEW TOILET
If your toilet is old and in need of repairs, it is really cheaper to install a new one. This is the easiest of all the plumbing jobs in the home to do and if you follow my simple instructions you can put yours in yourself.
1. Shut off the water to the toilet, use a bucket and a cloth or a sponge to remove the water left in tank and bowl after you flush the toilet.
2. Using a pair of channel pliers, or a small pipe wrench (8"), remove the nut where the water line fastens to the ballcock valve under the left side of the bottom of the tank. Next use a small crescent wrench, remove the two 1/4" nuts holding the bowl to the floor flange. Remove old toilet. Remove the water line from the valve or fitting at floor or wall.
3. Now you are ready to install your new toilet. Put the two 1/4" bolts in the side holes of the flange with the bolt head in the flange. Put some of the old wax at this spot to hold the bolts straight up and across from each other. Put new wax ring on flange, flat side up if tapered.
4. Set new bowl only straight down so it centers on wax ring and both bolts come through holds on each side of bowl. Sit on bowl facing wall until your weight puts bowl flush with the floor. Put metal washers and nuts on bolts and tighten until snug. Do not over-tighten as you can crack the bowl. Tighten these again after toilet is completely installed and filled with water.
5. Next put 2" rubber gasket on tank where it sets on the bowl, put rubber washers on bolts provided under the bolt head so they will be on the inside of the tank. Pick up tank and set on bowl over holes in bowl where bolts go through. Sit on bowl facing wall. Put bolts on from the inside of the tank into holes in bowl, put on metal washers and nuts and tighten. Hold tank level and tighten so it brings tank down level. Use a large screw driver inside tank and a crescent wrench or end wrench to back up nut under bowl. Tighten with screw driver. Hook water supply to tank, turn on water, check for leaks, snug up the bolts holding bowl to floor. If there is a space between the back of the tank and the wall, put a spacer of sort there to brace tank. A piece of wood or hard rubber works fine.
PARTS NEEDED:
Toilet bowl Toilet tank Toilet seat Two 1/4" bolts for bowl to flange Wax ring 20" water supply with fitting at valve or floor connection
Now DO put my DOs and DON'Ts into use, and you new toilet will never need a plumber!
WATER CONSERVATION BEGINS AT HOME
I believe if we tried we could cut our water use in half. There are many more ways other than the ones I have in my report. Have an idea of your own ? write it down. Sometimes some things we don't think are worthwhile are great ideas.
Like the young man who went into one of the larger toothpaste companies and told the president of the company if he paid him a sizeable amount of money, he would give him his idea on how he could double his toothpaste business. The company president agreed, and the young man said, okay here's what you do, make the hole in all of your toothpaste tubes twice the size it is now, this will double the use of your toothpaste, and double your sales.
HERE ARE SOME OF MY IDEAS
The first thing to do is to check your entire plumbing system for leaks - leaking faucets, water pipes, etc. If you don't think a leaking faucet will waste water, put the stopper in a sink where one is leaking overnight.
The toilet is the worst water waster of all. Flush the toilet and wait until it supposedly shuts off, then listen at the tank for a hissing or trickling sound, if you hear a noise here's what to do, check the rubber tank ball or flapper in the middle of the toilet tank at the bottom. If the ball is old and has lost its shape, replace it. Also using a fine steel wool pad, clean off the seat under the ball till it is smooth. If the noise is from the ballcock valve on the left side of the tank and is the type with the quarter inch rod with a metal or plastic float ball, lift up on the rod, if the noise stops, then starts again after you let go, chances are your ballcock valve is bad and needs replaced. If when you are holding the quarter inch rod up and the water leaks out of the tank, and you have already replaced the rubber ball or the flapper, check the lift wire or the chain from the ball to the handle, and make sure it is not dropping the ball wrong, or is on a bind.
WHEN YOU FLUSH YOUR TOILET AT ANY TIME, ALWAYS WAIT UNTIL YOU ARE SURE IT SHUTS OFF, ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE LEAVING THE HOUSE. IF YOU ARE LEAVING YOUR HOUSE FOR A VACATION OR ONLY A COUPLE DAYS ITS A GOOD IDEA TO SHUT YOUR MAIN WATER VALVE OFF. IT MIGHT SAVE A GREAT WATER LOSS, AS WELL AS A LOT OF DAMAGE TO YOUR HOME. HERE'S WHY:
I had a plumbing call to a home where the people had gone on a vacation for two weeks. The last person to leave the home flushed the toilet and did not wait to be sure it shut off before leaving.
HERE'S WHAT HAPPENED:
The toilet stopped up when the last person flushed it. The rubber ball did not drop back straight and the water ran over the toilet bowl for two weeks.
HERES WHAT THEY FOUND WHEN THEY RETURNED HOME AFTER TWO WEEKS:
- The bathroom and the kitchen floors had warped.
- The tile and the carpet was ruined.
- The plaster ceiling in the kitchen had fallen.
- The woodwork and the doors were all warped.
- The formica counter tops in the kitchen had lifted.
- Below the kitchen in the basement, the father and son's very expensive car and train set were severely damaged.
NOW this was in the winter time, and the furnace was left on to keep the water pipes from freezing. The water went down from the first floor and leaked onto the furnace which made steam, the steam went into every room in the house and caused the wallpaper to fall off the walls in every room.
LOOK AT THE WATER WASTED HERE AS WELL AS THE $ COST
- When using your bathroom or kitchen sink, don't leave the water run when you don't need to.
- Take shorter showers.
- Turn off the shower when you are lathering up.
- When using your washing machine, and only washing a small amount of clothes, set the water level for less water.
TRY THIS:
Take the quarter inch refill tube that goes from the toilet ballcock valve into the overflow pipe in the toilet tank, and fasten it so the water from it goes into the tank and helps to fill it faster. You can only do this if when your toilet is flushed and retraps itself.
While the toilet is refilling after being flushed, it doesn't take as much water as is put into the bowl from the refill tube. Every little bit helps.
HERE IS A GOOD WATER SAVER
If the water pressure in your home is more than you need. DO THIS.
Close your main water valve until your pressure slows down some, but is still enough for your needs. Or do this to the smaller valves under your kitchen and bathroom sin. A lot of homes have a lot more pressure than they need.
UNDERGROUND WATER LEAKS
Sometimes there are water leaks underground between your home, the street, or your outside water supply.
These go undetected for years. Here's one way you can check your line for a leak. Put your ear on the water meter in your home and put your finger in your other ear. If you hear a hissing sound like pressure releasing you probably have a leak in your line, be sure no one is running water in the house when doing this. Most of the time a leak underground will eventually come to the top of the ground, but I have had some leaks that I found had worked theirt way into the sewer line under it, and had been leaking for years.
To check this, remove the clean out plug on your sewer line to the street. Put your ear at that point and listen, if you have a leak you will be able to hear it in the sewer line. Again be sure no one is running water...
HERE ARE SOME OF THE WAYS A CITY COULD SAVE WATER
In areas where the water pressure is greater than needed, the city water deptartment could install a pressure regulator valve at the water meter in these homes to control the amount water used.
Another good water saver would be to require in new home construction that a small spring valved wall hung urinal be installed in all bathrooms .
A TOILET WHEN FLUSHED USES ABOUT SIX GALLONS OF WATER.
A SMALL WALL HUNG SPRING VALVED URINAL USES LESS THAN ONE GALLON.
LOOK AT THE WATER THAT COULD BE SAVED HERE.
HERE IS A TWENTY FIVE YEAR WATER LEAK...
I worked as a maintenance plumber in one of the larger hospitals in the area. Here's what I found one day.
The kitchen of the hospital had a tile floor, and at one area the til floor was always hot, so much so the workers were always complaining of being too warm.
One day while working on the water piping, we had to turn off the water for a long time.
I later happened to kneel down on the floor where it was always hot. It had cooled down. When we turned the water back on we found a water line leaking under the floor where it was always hot. We repaired the hot water pipe, turned the water back on, and the floor stayed cool...
I then began to explain to the kitchen supervisor what we had found. She said she had worked here for twenty five years and the tile floor in that are had always been hot...
A twenty five year water leak. Can you believe the water loss here. I bet if we checked all over the good old U.S.A. we could find some water being wasted.
Cheap Carpet Carpeting A Room For 20
Do you want cheap carpet that you can easily install yourself? Well, I once carpeted a large bedroom for a total cost of about $12. You read that right, and no, the carpet was not used carpet. I did it with carpet samples.
I bought them for 25 cent apiece at a closeout sale, and it took 36 squares of carpet to finish the room. The only other supplies I used were the staples, which cost about a dollar. Normally, you might pay a dollar each for squares of carpet. I found them available for half that just a few weeks ago, but in any case, this is cheap carpet.
This is an unusual style, though, and you may have to consider the resale value of your home. The bedroom I carpeted this way was in a rental mobile home, where cheap and unusual styles are the norm. Ordinarily, you will want to save this trick for areas like basements, playrooms, and maybe a children's clubhouse. Still, it doesn't look so bad - actually it looks just fine if you mix the various colored squares of carpet well.
In a children's playroom, the multi-colored floor is perfect. It is cheerful and colorful, and if a spill stains one of the carpet squares, you can easily pull it up and install a new one in its place. This is a nice advantage of carpeting a room this way.
Installing Cheap Carpet
The only things you will need to carpet a room with carpet samples or squares is a carpet knife and a staple gun. 5/8-inch staples have worked best for me. Begin at any corner. Just put the piece in place and staple it in two or three places along each side. Wiggle the stapler head down between the fibers, or between the border and the fibers, and the staples will usually be well-hidden.
When carpeting a basement floor, you can use carpet tape instead of staples. In either case, this is best done where padding isn't too important. Of course, you can use padding too, if you don't mind the complications, but without it, this is pure simplicity.
You might want to lay out the pieces first, to decide where each will go. When you come to walls, heating registers, and other obstacles, you can easily cut the pieces to fit. If you make a mistake, it cost you perhaps a dollar. Just start over with a new piece.
Before you start, estimate how many pieces you'll need, and call around to find a carpet store that has enough samples for sale. The carpet samples at different stores range in size, but are usually at least 18 by 18 inches. Using pieces that are all the same size is the easiest way to go. Even at a dollar, this makes it less than 50 cents per square foot to carpet a room. That's cheap carpet!
I bought them for 25 cent apiece at a closeout sale, and it took 36 squares of carpet to finish the room. The only other supplies I used were the staples, which cost about a dollar. Normally, you might pay a dollar each for squares of carpet. I found them available for half that just a few weeks ago, but in any case, this is cheap carpet.
This is an unusual style, though, and you may have to consider the resale value of your home. The bedroom I carpeted this way was in a rental mobile home, where cheap and unusual styles are the norm. Ordinarily, you will want to save this trick for areas like basements, playrooms, and maybe a children's clubhouse. Still, it doesn't look so bad - actually it looks just fine if you mix the various colored squares of carpet well.
In a children's playroom, the multi-colored floor is perfect. It is cheerful and colorful, and if a spill stains one of the carpet squares, you can easily pull it up and install a new one in its place. This is a nice advantage of carpeting a room this way.
Installing Cheap Carpet
The only things you will need to carpet a room with carpet samples or squares is a carpet knife and a staple gun. 5/8-inch staples have worked best for me. Begin at any corner. Just put the piece in place and staple it in two or three places along each side. Wiggle the stapler head down between the fibers, or between the border and the fibers, and the staples will usually be well-hidden.
When carpeting a basement floor, you can use carpet tape instead of staples. In either case, this is best done where padding isn't too important. Of course, you can use padding too, if you don't mind the complications, but without it, this is pure simplicity.
You might want to lay out the pieces first, to decide where each will go. When you come to walls, heating registers, and other obstacles, you can easily cut the pieces to fit. If you make a mistake, it cost you perhaps a dollar. Just start over with a new piece.
Before you start, estimate how many pieces you'll need, and call around to find a carpet store that has enough samples for sale. The carpet samples at different stores range in size, but are usually at least 18 by 18 inches. Using pieces that are all the same size is the easiest way to go. Even at a dollar, this makes it less than 50 cents per square foot to carpet a room. That's cheap carpet!
Buying Cheap Wedding Supplies
While some people can afford large, opulent weddings, others have to stick to smaller events that are on a tighter budget. If you're the latter, don't worry-there are a plethora of resources online geared towards helping you throw a beautiful but inexpensive wedding.
Buying cheap wedding supplies is probably one of the most important elements to think about when you're planning your wedding. First, figure out a budget. Without a budget, you'll get lost and open yourself up to numerous problems.
Set a realistic budget and stick to it; this alone will help you immensely in planning your wedding. Get the help of friends and relatives, especially those adept at doing online research. There are some great deals to be had if you look in the right places.
One of those places is in the clearance section of online stores like americanbridal.com. There are often excellent deals on wedding favors, decorations, invitations, and more. Another thing to look for is coupons or special deals, especially around holidays. Often, merchants will list coupons on their site to get you to buy; this works to your advantage because you're there to buy something anyways.
Another thing to think about is buying in bulk. This is the most cost effective way to buy things, especially wedding favors and similar decorations. If you want to do something personal, keep in mind that some stores offer personalization free with certain items, and others charge it as an extra service.
If the store is good, they'll have a section for you to browse by price, so you can find items in or near your price range. Examples of cheap wedding supplies under five dollars include candle sets, bud vases and card holders, candy, cookies, and other edibles, bride and groom miniature photo album favors, coaster sets, soaps, mini album, 'love' rocks, bottle stoppers, satin edged ribbon, and a bottle opener favor with free personalized tags.
For fewer than ten dollars, you can get all of the above, including items like themed place card holders, luggage tag favors, miniature cutlery, elegant, simple and decorated picture frames, and much more.
Cheap wedding supplies under twenty dollars (jewelry is clearance) include items like a set of twelve packets of flower seeds, often offered in a heart, rectangle or other shape, an engraveable martini shaker, photo albums, cake and knife set, earrings, necklaces, flower girl tiaras, beaded clutches, gloves, a twelve set of decorated aluminum containers, perfume bottles, jewelry boxes, incense, money clips, purses, items sold by the dozen, and more.
Thus, there really is something for every budget, and there are numerous choices of excellent, cheap wedding supplies and favors. There are also excellent bulk options available that often save you a good amount. Stick to your budget, do the research, and find the best deal; you'll have the wedding of your dreams at a price you can afford.
Whether you are having a large or small wedding you will find what you need at AmericanBridal.com. It is an online resource for great wedding deals and ideas. Shop 24 hours 7 days a week and check out their vast selection of wedding supplies.
Buying cheap wedding supplies is probably one of the most important elements to think about when you're planning your wedding. First, figure out a budget. Without a budget, you'll get lost and open yourself up to numerous problems.
Set a realistic budget and stick to it; this alone will help you immensely in planning your wedding. Get the help of friends and relatives, especially those adept at doing online research. There are some great deals to be had if you look in the right places.
One of those places is in the clearance section of online stores like americanbridal.com. There are often excellent deals on wedding favors, decorations, invitations, and more. Another thing to look for is coupons or special deals, especially around holidays. Often, merchants will list coupons on their site to get you to buy; this works to your advantage because you're there to buy something anyways.
Another thing to think about is buying in bulk. This is the most cost effective way to buy things, especially wedding favors and similar decorations. If you want to do something personal, keep in mind that some stores offer personalization free with certain items, and others charge it as an extra service.
If the store is good, they'll have a section for you to browse by price, so you can find items in or near your price range. Examples of cheap wedding supplies under five dollars include candle sets, bud vases and card holders, candy, cookies, and other edibles, bride and groom miniature photo album favors, coaster sets, soaps, mini album, 'love' rocks, bottle stoppers, satin edged ribbon, and a bottle opener favor with free personalized tags.
For fewer than ten dollars, you can get all of the above, including items like themed place card holders, luggage tag favors, miniature cutlery, elegant, simple and decorated picture frames, and much more.
Cheap wedding supplies under twenty dollars (jewelry is clearance) include items like a set of twelve packets of flower seeds, often offered in a heart, rectangle or other shape, an engraveable martini shaker, photo albums, cake and knife set, earrings, necklaces, flower girl tiaras, beaded clutches, gloves, a twelve set of decorated aluminum containers, perfume bottles, jewelry boxes, incense, money clips, purses, items sold by the dozen, and more.
Thus, there really is something for every budget, and there are numerous choices of excellent, cheap wedding supplies and favors. There are also excellent bulk options available that often save you a good amount. Stick to your budget, do the research, and find the best deal; you'll have the wedding of your dreams at a price you can afford.
Whether you are having a large or small wedding you will find what you need at AmericanBridal.com. It is an online resource for great wedding deals and ideas. Shop 24 hours 7 days a week and check out their vast selection of wedding supplies.
How To Make Money Making Magnetic Signs
Making magnetic signs in your garage or shop not only profitable -- it can be fun! Magnetic signs are vacuum formed, 3-D sheets of plastic with two-way foam or magnetic strips on the back to hold them in place.
The "book" on magnetic signs has not yet been finished because each every new entrepreneur discovers new innovations, such as "cast iron" finish or metallic paints and relief cameos. The primary products, magnetic car and truck signs, are widely accepted but there is still plenty of room for your creative talents!
The initial investment to go into this business is approximately $1,000 for some basic no-frills equipment and startup supplies. The cost of making a pair of 12 x 24 inch (the standard size) is about $7.00 with 10 -15 minutes labor. A pair this size sells for about $40 ($24 wholesale).
The magnetic sign process is performed by placing a 28 by 16 inch start white vinyl plastic into a vacuum machine, heating the plastic until it softens, then "pulling" it down over an arrangement of letters with a vacuum pump.
The vacuum machine looks something like a suitcase -- with heating wires in the top perforated baffle about 4 inches below the rim of the bottom. The vacuum motor is underneath the baffle and the controls are on the outside front. The plastic is laid across the bottom half and sealed when the lid is closed.
The heat is turned on a couple of minutes (until the plastic begins to sag), then it is turned off and the seconds, during which time the plastic is pulled down onto the perforated baffle.
When the vacuum machine is opened, the resulting sign has a raised impression of whatever design was placed on top of the baffle. The rough sign is then removed, trimmed, magnetic tape applied, and the raised portions are "painted" with rubber rollers (brayers) and vinyl "ink" (Paint). Minor errors are scraped off with pocket knife and PRESTO, a finished magnetic sign!
The magnetic sign "art" is fashioning and arranging the models (letters, logos, etc.) that create the sign. Letters and logos are about 1/8" thick (thicker for large items). They are arranged or laid out exactly as the sign should appear.
A wide variety of letters (sold in sets or "fonts"), Logos and various special effects such as borders, corner embellishment and arrows are available commercially in magnetic, metal or composition material.
Magnetic are the most expensive and are used for designs laid out directly on the baffle. Their magnetism helps them stay in place as the hot plastic forms over them. Metal letters are also expensive, but long lasting. Composition letters are used for the clipboard process (see below), and are quite easy to make yourself.
There are two basic methods of laying out copy. The first (and fastest) is to arrange magnetic letters directly onto the baffle and "pull" the sign down over them. This method, however, often results in slippage -- letters on the outside are moved slightly as the plastic catches them in the pulling process. It also is difficult to keep everything "together" for more than a couple of pulls.
Other drawback are the cost of magnetic letters, that only the old, two-way cellophane back magnetic tape can be used (foam backed would melt) and, that the baffle holes show through onto the sign (although few customers seem to mind).
The other, (chipboard) method involves gluing magnetic OR ANY OTHER TYPE LETTER or design onto pieces of chipboard that are the exact size of the desired sign.
Chipboard is a gray composition material like that found on the back of writing tablets -- its is porous enough to let the vacuum process work, and smooth enough to give the sign a nice, satin finish.
Most sign operators have many different styles of chipboard patterns -- all cut to shape, with rounded corners even custom shapes. Lines are drawn on them with FELT TIPPED PENS ball point leaves lines that show on the sign!) as layout guides.
Some even have circular lines so the letters of top line of the sign can be laid out in an arch. As the letters are placed onto the chipboard pattern, a touch of glue is added (white, or gluestick), to hold them in place (use more glue for more impressions). Once the sign is laid out, place the whole thing in the machine and make as many signs as you need.
When finished, pick off the letters and use a piece of sandpaper to smooth the remaining glue on the chipboard. Occasionally, you may have to wash the letters -- but not often.
Chipboard signs do not show the tape lines because the tape is applied after the sign has been formed. They are especially desirable in cases where several sets are needed -- and for those little space-fillers, because the letters stay in place. They also offer the advantage of custom shapes. Any shape you can cut out of the chipbaord can be the shape of your sign, which can be used over and over again (thanks to the sandpaper technique).
Finally, the chipbaord sign is now every bit as durable, due to the advent of foam backed magnetic tape.
Several years ago there were problems with the magnetic tape coming off, even for signs molded in the machine (where the tape and plastic are hot when they "meet").
This problem was sometimes caused by improper molding or the use of mold release spray in the area. The proper way is to frame the desired sign on the baffle with the magnetic tape, then pull off the protective cover at the last moment before the sign is pulled. Signs made this way show both the baffle holes and the magnetic tape impression.
Signs not made this way (e.g.,chipboard) should ALWAYS have foam backed magnetic strips or full magnetic backs. Otherwise, there will be detachment problems.
Full magnetic back material costs about twice as much as strips and is half as thick. It does make a nice, sturdy sign, but probably won't last any longer or perform any better!
Some sign makers use styrene plastic sheets, which are much cheaper than vinyl (or clear butyl) -- but they will not last outside. Styrene should be use for experimentation, molding and inside signs only. It is wise to keep a few sheets around for these purposes.
Note that styrene will not stick to vinyl and vice versa. Styrene works fine for molding and will keep for months if kept flat and out of the sun. Many sign makers keep impressions in styrene in case they need to mold more letters or logos.
There are several ways to mold your own letters and logos. You can mold from impressions you make, or copy one from another sign (clean the back and spray it lightly with mold release first).
Although you can use temporary material, such as fiber glass, most of these will not hold up in the vacuum machine for more than one or two pulls (due to the heat), and some will require lots of mold release (or baby powder).
Molding compound (two part) is expensive, but yields very inexpensive fonts. If you want to save money, buy a font of PLASTIC letters, make an impression of them in styrene, then mold your own letters with a good quality molding compound. You will be able to save about 85%!
Another way to save money is to make your own models out of Masonite or chipboard (two ply). You can make arrows, lines, flowers, whatever (#8 copper wire makes excellent parentheses; model airplane balsa strips are great lines and boxes).
If you want more copies, make an impression in styrene -- or unused portion of a sign that you are pulling -- and mold as many as you need.
Selling magnetic signs is a matter of getting out the word. If you want to wholesale, take a few (small) samples around and call on stationery stores. Tell them about your service and how long it will take to get a pair of signs they order (since you are local, you can beat out-of-towners).
When they agree to take orders, leave a price list and your phone number. If you also retail, you must sell at the same "suggested" retail prices (or your accounts will leave you flat). Put signs on your truck or car (sides and back), a small ad in the paper, and have a few cards printed.
Set up a record-keeping system, get some sales books from the dime store (stamp them with your company name), and start cranking out signs.
Although anyone can learn to make magnetic signs, the best advice is to get an outfit, invest in some styrene and an 8 oz bottle of styrene paint, and "ruin some plastic."
It takes a little practice to become proficient at spacing letters and painting the rollers, etc. but you will catch on surprisingly fast.
An easy way to keep track of orders that come in by phone (usually from retail accounts) is to keep a bound notebook next to the phone, and make a little box beside each order.
List the date, account and full details of the sign ordered. When the order is finished and delivered check off the little box -- this will let you see at a glance which orders are still pending at any one time.
The biggest potential problem area is that you might make mistakes that result in lost time and money.
Make sure all of your "copy" is written down and keep a dictionary handy. When taking orders by phone, be especially careful to get the correct message, spelling, colors, etc.
When laying out the work, pin the order at eye level above where you are working -- and double check the sign against the order before putting your finished layout into the machine... If there is the SLIGHTEST doubt in spelling or wording, check before you pull!
One other thing be aware of is the size of your vacuum machine. The standard sign is 12 x 24", so your machine should be big enough to make one OR TWO signs at a time. With odd sized machines, you may have a lot of expensive waste.
Tip: If you consider buying a second machine, get one that will use the same size rolls of plastic, so you can buy in bulk and use the same cutting boards, etc.
You can also make customized plates in a standard vacuum machine ( 3 at a time in a 12 x 24 inch model). This simply requires three chipboard patterns upon which you lay out and glue the desired copy. And, you can make impressions of almost anything.
One sign maker glued bolt heads on his chip board and painted them so the sign look like they are bolted on the vehicle! Another trick is to cover the chipboard with fabric (use 3-M spray adhesive for this) for an interesting background. There are thousand of other variations that you will discover in this fascinating business.
Note also that once you are in the magnetic sign business, the same customer will be interested in printing, engraved signs, and all sorts of things that are associated with starting and promoting small businesses.
Tips: to make "metallic" paint, add an ounce of aluminum to seven ounces of regular color. For a cast iron appearance, form over sandpaper, paint black and apply metallic rub 'n buff.
The "book" on magnetic signs has not yet been finished because each every new entrepreneur discovers new innovations, such as "cast iron" finish or metallic paints and relief cameos. The primary products, magnetic car and truck signs, are widely accepted but there is still plenty of room for your creative talents!
The initial investment to go into this business is approximately $1,000 for some basic no-frills equipment and startup supplies. The cost of making a pair of 12 x 24 inch (the standard size) is about $7.00 with 10 -15 minutes labor. A pair this size sells for about $40 ($24 wholesale).
The magnetic sign process is performed by placing a 28 by 16 inch start white vinyl plastic into a vacuum machine, heating the plastic until it softens, then "pulling" it down over an arrangement of letters with a vacuum pump.
The vacuum machine looks something like a suitcase -- with heating wires in the top perforated baffle about 4 inches below the rim of the bottom. The vacuum motor is underneath the baffle and the controls are on the outside front. The plastic is laid across the bottom half and sealed when the lid is closed.
The heat is turned on a couple of minutes (until the plastic begins to sag), then it is turned off and the seconds, during which time the plastic is pulled down onto the perforated baffle.
When the vacuum machine is opened, the resulting sign has a raised impression of whatever design was placed on top of the baffle. The rough sign is then removed, trimmed, magnetic tape applied, and the raised portions are "painted" with rubber rollers (brayers) and vinyl "ink" (Paint). Minor errors are scraped off with pocket knife and PRESTO, a finished magnetic sign!
The magnetic sign "art" is fashioning and arranging the models (letters, logos, etc.) that create the sign. Letters and logos are about 1/8" thick (thicker for large items). They are arranged or laid out exactly as the sign should appear.
A wide variety of letters (sold in sets or "fonts"), Logos and various special effects such as borders, corner embellishment and arrows are available commercially in magnetic, metal or composition material.
Magnetic are the most expensive and are used for designs laid out directly on the baffle. Their magnetism helps them stay in place as the hot plastic forms over them. Metal letters are also expensive, but long lasting. Composition letters are used for the clipboard process (see below), and are quite easy to make yourself.
There are two basic methods of laying out copy. The first (and fastest) is to arrange magnetic letters directly onto the baffle and "pull" the sign down over them. This method, however, often results in slippage -- letters on the outside are moved slightly as the plastic catches them in the pulling process. It also is difficult to keep everything "together" for more than a couple of pulls.
Other drawback are the cost of magnetic letters, that only the old, two-way cellophane back magnetic tape can be used (foam backed would melt) and, that the baffle holes show through onto the sign (although few customers seem to mind).
The other, (chipboard) method involves gluing magnetic OR ANY OTHER TYPE LETTER or design onto pieces of chipboard that are the exact size of the desired sign.
Chipboard is a gray composition material like that found on the back of writing tablets -- its is porous enough to let the vacuum process work, and smooth enough to give the sign a nice, satin finish.
Most sign operators have many different styles of chipboard patterns -- all cut to shape, with rounded corners even custom shapes. Lines are drawn on them with FELT TIPPED PENS ball point leaves lines that show on the sign!) as layout guides.
Some even have circular lines so the letters of top line of the sign can be laid out in an arch. As the letters are placed onto the chipboard pattern, a touch of glue is added (white, or gluestick), to hold them in place (use more glue for more impressions). Once the sign is laid out, place the whole thing in the machine and make as many signs as you need.
When finished, pick off the letters and use a piece of sandpaper to smooth the remaining glue on the chipboard. Occasionally, you may have to wash the letters -- but not often.
Chipboard signs do not show the tape lines because the tape is applied after the sign has been formed. They are especially desirable in cases where several sets are needed -- and for those little space-fillers, because the letters stay in place. They also offer the advantage of custom shapes. Any shape you can cut out of the chipbaord can be the shape of your sign, which can be used over and over again (thanks to the sandpaper technique).
Finally, the chipbaord sign is now every bit as durable, due to the advent of foam backed magnetic tape.
Several years ago there were problems with the magnetic tape coming off, even for signs molded in the machine (where the tape and plastic are hot when they "meet").
This problem was sometimes caused by improper molding or the use of mold release spray in the area. The proper way is to frame the desired sign on the baffle with the magnetic tape, then pull off the protective cover at the last moment before the sign is pulled. Signs made this way show both the baffle holes and the magnetic tape impression.
Signs not made this way (e.g.,chipboard) should ALWAYS have foam backed magnetic strips or full magnetic backs. Otherwise, there will be detachment problems.
Full magnetic back material costs about twice as much as strips and is half as thick. It does make a nice, sturdy sign, but probably won't last any longer or perform any better!
Some sign makers use styrene plastic sheets, which are much cheaper than vinyl (or clear butyl) -- but they will not last outside. Styrene should be use for experimentation, molding and inside signs only. It is wise to keep a few sheets around for these purposes.
Note that styrene will not stick to vinyl and vice versa. Styrene works fine for molding and will keep for months if kept flat and out of the sun. Many sign makers keep impressions in styrene in case they need to mold more letters or logos.
There are several ways to mold your own letters and logos. You can mold from impressions you make, or copy one from another sign (clean the back and spray it lightly with mold release first).
Although you can use temporary material, such as fiber glass, most of these will not hold up in the vacuum machine for more than one or two pulls (due to the heat), and some will require lots of mold release (or baby powder).
Molding compound (two part) is expensive, but yields very inexpensive fonts. If you want to save money, buy a font of PLASTIC letters, make an impression of them in styrene, then mold your own letters with a good quality molding compound. You will be able to save about 85%!
Another way to save money is to make your own models out of Masonite or chipboard (two ply). You can make arrows, lines, flowers, whatever (#8 copper wire makes excellent parentheses; model airplane balsa strips are great lines and boxes).
If you want more copies, make an impression in styrene -- or unused portion of a sign that you are pulling -- and mold as many as you need.
Selling magnetic signs is a matter of getting out the word. If you want to wholesale, take a few (small) samples around and call on stationery stores. Tell them about your service and how long it will take to get a pair of signs they order (since you are local, you can beat out-of-towners).
When they agree to take orders, leave a price list and your phone number. If you also retail, you must sell at the same "suggested" retail prices (or your accounts will leave you flat). Put signs on your truck or car (sides and back), a small ad in the paper, and have a few cards printed.
Set up a record-keeping system, get some sales books from the dime store (stamp them with your company name), and start cranking out signs.
Although anyone can learn to make magnetic signs, the best advice is to get an outfit, invest in some styrene and an 8 oz bottle of styrene paint, and "ruin some plastic."
It takes a little practice to become proficient at spacing letters and painting the rollers, etc. but you will catch on surprisingly fast.
An easy way to keep track of orders that come in by phone (usually from retail accounts) is to keep a bound notebook next to the phone, and make a little box beside each order.
List the date, account and full details of the sign ordered. When the order is finished and delivered check off the little box -- this will let you see at a glance which orders are still pending at any one time.
The biggest potential problem area is that you might make mistakes that result in lost time and money.
Make sure all of your "copy" is written down and keep a dictionary handy. When taking orders by phone, be especially careful to get the correct message, spelling, colors, etc.
When laying out the work, pin the order at eye level above where you are working -- and double check the sign against the order before putting your finished layout into the machine... If there is the SLIGHTEST doubt in spelling or wording, check before you pull!
One other thing be aware of is the size of your vacuum machine. The standard sign is 12 x 24", so your machine should be big enough to make one OR TWO signs at a time. With odd sized machines, you may have a lot of expensive waste.
Tip: If you consider buying a second machine, get one that will use the same size rolls of plastic, so you can buy in bulk and use the same cutting boards, etc.
You can also make customized plates in a standard vacuum machine ( 3 at a time in a 12 x 24 inch model). This simply requires three chipboard patterns upon which you lay out and glue the desired copy. And, you can make impressions of almost anything.
One sign maker glued bolt heads on his chip board and painted them so the sign look like they are bolted on the vehicle! Another trick is to cover the chipboard with fabric (use 3-M spray adhesive for this) for an interesting background. There are thousand of other variations that you will discover in this fascinating business.
Note also that once you are in the magnetic sign business, the same customer will be interested in printing, engraved signs, and all sorts of things that are associated with starting and promoting small businesses.
Tips: to make "metallic" paint, add an ounce of aluminum to seven ounces of regular color. For a cast iron appearance, form over sandpaper, paint black and apply metallic rub 'n buff.
Swiss Army Knife - The Next Big Thing In Hand Tools
Above: The many functions of Shopro's Multi-Tool.
Swiss Army knives have always been the craze due to their durability and versatility. However, a Swiss Army knife was designed for general outdoor use, and not with the handyman in mind. A Swiss Army knife isn't much use, for example, when you need to hammer a nail into a piece of plywood.
For heavy duty jobs, you need to keep a more sophisticated tool, such as a multi-functional hammer. There are multiple variations of this tool, but the main idea is that it provides a handyman an alternative tool whenever he is separated from his tool-box and tool-belt.
Disguised as a small hammer, multi-functional tools can also be used as shop-quality pliers. Both the hammer head and the handle are able to separate into two sections. When torque is applied to the two sections of the handle, a firm gripping motion is transferred to the jaws. In addition to the hammer and pliers, multi-functional tools, such as the Shopro Professional 11-in-1 multi-functional tool, usually include a nail puller, slotted and Phillips screwdrivers, and an assortment of saws, knives, and files.
The Shopro multi-functional tool is actually unique in that it provides far more functionality when compared to any other tool that I've examined. Approximately the size of a small remote control, Shopro's unit is quite small and portable. For example, in addition to the pliers and hammer head, Shopro proudly boasts that their multi-functional unit provides the following 11 functionalities:
Above: Shopro's multi-functional tool replaces 11 distinct tools.
Regular pliers
Hammer head
Small slotted screwdriver
Large slotted screwdriver
File
Serrated Saw
Large knife
Nail puller
Phillips screwdriver
Bottle opener
Small knife
Swiss Army knives have always been the craze due to their durability and versatility. However, a Swiss Army knife was designed for general outdoor use, and not with the handyman in mind. A Swiss Army knife isn't much use, for example, when you need to hammer a nail into a piece of plywood.
For heavy duty jobs, you need to keep a more sophisticated tool, such as a multi-functional hammer. There are multiple variations of this tool, but the main idea is that it provides a handyman an alternative tool whenever he is separated from his tool-box and tool-belt.
Disguised as a small hammer, multi-functional tools can also be used as shop-quality pliers. Both the hammer head and the handle are able to separate into two sections. When torque is applied to the two sections of the handle, a firm gripping motion is transferred to the jaws. In addition to the hammer and pliers, multi-functional tools, such as the Shopro Professional 11-in-1 multi-functional tool, usually include a nail puller, slotted and Phillips screwdrivers, and an assortment of saws, knives, and files.
The Shopro multi-functional tool is actually unique in that it provides far more functionality when compared to any other tool that I've examined. Approximately the size of a small remote control, Shopro's unit is quite small and portable. For example, in addition to the pliers and hammer head, Shopro proudly boasts that their multi-functional unit provides the following 11 functionalities:
Above: Shopro's multi-functional tool replaces 11 distinct tools.
Regular pliers
Hammer head
Small slotted screwdriver
Large slotted screwdriver
File
Serrated Saw
Large knife
Nail puller
Phillips screwdriver
Bottle opener
Small knife
Angler's Choice: Choosing A Fillet Knife Right For You
An avid fisherman is typically able to tell you the contents of his tackle box: fishing hooks, line in various weights, shiny and dull fishing lures, colorful bobbers, an extra reel, needle nose pliers, a flashlight, maybe some fishing scissors and a fishing knife. Each of these tackle box items is an important element in both successful and not so successful fishing trips to the river. Having the right kind of gear, the kind that will withstand a variety of elements, is key.
The following are some tips on what to look for when purchasing a durable fishing or fillet knife to all those would-be and experienced anglers out there.
When choosing a fishing knife, the size of the fish being lured needs to be considered. A ten inch blade would be excessive if you typically fish stocked rainbow trout or crappie in your local river. The larger blade could damage the meat of smaller fish during cleaning if you are not careful. On the other hand, a small fillet knife on a medium-to-large catfish or grouper would be time consuming and potentially impossible. If you fish a variety of species, consider owning multiple knives in various lengths and widths. There are a number of fishing knife sets with multiple blade styles available on the market. If you have one knife that you really like, maybe it has a handle style that suits you, see if the manufacturer makes other size knives in the same style.
The next item to consider when choosing a fillet or fishing knife, is the quality of the blade. You want to look for stainless steel blades that can maintain their sharpness. You also want to try to buy one that can be sharpened easily throughout a fishing season. Stainless steel is recommended because of its stronger resistance to rust; fishing knives encounter a lot of water. You will want the same durability and strength in your fishing knife as you would a hunting knife. However, with a fillet knife, a tempered blade that can cut smoothly and thinly is ideal. When purchasing a fillet knife, look for one that is serrated in a portion of the knife, toward the handle is best. Having the serration in addition to the smooth sharp blade will be helpful to cut through tougher sections and bones and will keep you from needing a second serrated knife.
The final items to consider are all about your personal style. There are a number of knives available depending on the type of fisherman you or the recipient of the knife is. Consider how frequently you use a fishing knife during your fishing trips. If you tend to constantly be reaching for yours, purchase a folded knife that can be put in your pocket or hang from a fishing vest so it will be easy to get to. If you have a messier tackle box with little organization, consider purchasing a fishing knife that comes with a sturdy knife sleeve or one that folds to avoid accidentally cutting yourself or damaging the blade while it is moving around in the box. If you have arthritis or carpel tunnel syndrome, try out various knife handle shapes to find one that is comfortable for you. There are a number of knife options available; don’t settle for anything other than what will best help you as you fish this summer.
Consider these tips as you put together your tackle box and gear this summer. Whether you are heading to the river, lake or ocean, a quality fishing or fillet knife is an important addition and just may help bring in the record breaking fish.
The following are some tips on what to look for when purchasing a durable fishing or fillet knife to all those would-be and experienced anglers out there.
When choosing a fishing knife, the size of the fish being lured needs to be considered. A ten inch blade would be excessive if you typically fish stocked rainbow trout or crappie in your local river. The larger blade could damage the meat of smaller fish during cleaning if you are not careful. On the other hand, a small fillet knife on a medium-to-large catfish or grouper would be time consuming and potentially impossible. If you fish a variety of species, consider owning multiple knives in various lengths and widths. There are a number of fishing knife sets with multiple blade styles available on the market. If you have one knife that you really like, maybe it has a handle style that suits you, see if the manufacturer makes other size knives in the same style.
The next item to consider when choosing a fillet or fishing knife, is the quality of the blade. You want to look for stainless steel blades that can maintain their sharpness. You also want to try to buy one that can be sharpened easily throughout a fishing season. Stainless steel is recommended because of its stronger resistance to rust; fishing knives encounter a lot of water. You will want the same durability and strength in your fishing knife as you would a hunting knife. However, with a fillet knife, a tempered blade that can cut smoothly and thinly is ideal. When purchasing a fillet knife, look for one that is serrated in a portion of the knife, toward the handle is best. Having the serration in addition to the smooth sharp blade will be helpful to cut through tougher sections and bones and will keep you from needing a second serrated knife.
The final items to consider are all about your personal style. There are a number of knives available depending on the type of fisherman you or the recipient of the knife is. Consider how frequently you use a fishing knife during your fishing trips. If you tend to constantly be reaching for yours, purchase a folded knife that can be put in your pocket or hang from a fishing vest so it will be easy to get to. If you have a messier tackle box with little organization, consider purchasing a fishing knife that comes with a sturdy knife sleeve or one that folds to avoid accidentally cutting yourself or damaging the blade while it is moving around in the box. If you have arthritis or carpel tunnel syndrome, try out various knife handle shapes to find one that is comfortable for you. There are a number of knife options available; don’t settle for anything other than what will best help you as you fish this summer.
Consider these tips as you put together your tackle box and gear this summer. Whether you are heading to the river, lake or ocean, a quality fishing or fillet knife is an important addition and just may help bring in the record breaking fish.
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